The term comes from the Japanese word ‘boke’, which means blurry. I love to shoot with a little depth of field. This means that there is a big difference between what is in focus and what is out of focus.
The motif in focus is highlighted and clearly visible from the blurred background.
The term bokeh is often used about the quality of the blurred areas in the background and how dense and visually appealing these areas appear. It is often highlights that create the most prominent bokeh effects, and to get the finest bokeh it is preferable that these are as round as possible.
It is crucial that the lens aperture and its ability to create as round a shape as possible. The aperture of the lens is not really round, but consists of a number of slats that together create a round shape.
Expensive optics with large apertures usually provide the finest bokeh quality, while less expensive optics often create a more five- and hexagonal bokeh shape.
4 tips for better bokeh:
Large aperture gives finest bokeh. The minimal depth of field separates the subject from the background.
Note the background. Look for the finest backgrounds, preferably with some bright ones sticking out.
Use the camera’s live view. Using the screen on the camera as you compose the image makes it easier to visualize how the end result will be.
Manual focus gives you the greatest control over the result if it is primarily the bokeh effect you are looking for.
Although in the textbook, the round bokeh shape is preferred, there is nothing in the way of creating their own bokeh shapes. You can easily do this by cutting or cutting out clear, small shapes in cardboard and fastening the cardboard with the carved shapes in front of the lens. The figures should not be too large.